KUMANO KODO AND THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO

Xavier Rodríguez Prieto

TWO SISTER PILGRIMAGE ROUTES

The Kumano Kodo in the Land of the Rising Sun and the Saint James Way in the Land of the Setting Sun are two sister pilgrimage routes that have been united since 1998 and are the only ones recognized as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Despite being on opposite sides of the world, their histories are not so different. In both cases, the exact date of their origins is unknown, and both experienced periods of splendor, decline, and finally, a rebirth at the end of the 20th century.

Unraveling the Kumano Kodo

The Kumano region, in Mie Prefecture, Japan, has been associated with nature worship since ancient times, as well as the search for inner peace and purification through hot springs.

It is believed that the pilgrimage routes along the Kii Mountains of Kumano began to form during the 10th century, combining aspects of Shintoism and Buddhism—the two main religions of Japan—and have endured to this day. From the 11th to the 13th century, the Japanese imperial family began making numerous pilgrimages to Kumano, and the infrastructure of the path was improved and expanded. From the 14th to the 16th century, it was primarily the samurai class that made pilgrimages to this area. It was not until the 15th century that pilgrimages extended to the common people.

From the 17th to the 19th century, the Kumano pilgrimage experienced its golden age. With the period of peace and economic growth that the country saw during that time, more artisans and merchants became interested in the path, and accommodations, roads, and other infrastructure were improved, increasing the number of pilgrims. In the 19th century, the path suffered a crisis and declined, and it was not until the late 1990s that it experienced a rebirth with an increase in the number of pilgrims, which continued to grow significantly with the UNESCO World Heritage declaration in 2004.

The Pilgrimage

The Kumano Kodo consists of three different shrines united in a route or circuit that allows for various paths and directions. Together, it consists of a pilgrimage to the sacred Kii Mountains and their three main temples: Hongu Taisha Shrine (熊野本宮大社), Hayatama Taisha Shrine (熊野速玉大社), and Nachi Taisha Shrine (熊野那智大社).

Since its origins, the Kumano Kodo has been strongly linked to nature, as it is marked by Shintoism, the native animistic religion of Japan that worships nature deities. The deity of Nachi Taisha is the waterfall next to the temple, while the Kumano River is an important sacred place and an integral part of the path. Not to mention the beautiful cherry blossoms that can be found in bloom along the path in spring, and the impressive 800-year-old sacred conifer, the largest of its kind in Japan, that proudly stands in the gardens of Hayatama Taisha.

The Kumano Kodo has different routes, mainly four:

• The Nakahechi route, the most popular today and used by the imperial family at the origin of the pilgrimages, characterized by its cobblestone paths
• The Kohechi route, which crosses the mountains with an elevation gain of 1,000 meters, considered one of the most challenging and, therefore, the least traveled
• The Ohechi route, which runs along the coast and during the Edo period (17th-19th centuries) attracted numerous Japanese artists and writers for its spectacular landscapes
• And the Iseji route, which connects the city of Ise to the southeast with the three shrines of Kumano.

The Kumano Kodo has the peculiarity that within its pilgrimage routes, the Kumano River is included, which since the origins of the path has been an integral part of it. Pilgrims travel by boat from Hongu Taisha Shrine to Hayatama Taisha Shrine at the river’s mouth, these being two key points of the Kumano pilgrimage. This water path was also included as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, being the only aquatic path recognized as a pilgrimage route by UNESCO.

Vending Machines on the Route? The Curiosities of the Kumano Kodo

It is curious to observe how each of these two pilgrimage routes, the Kumano Kodo and the Camino de Santiago, has its own garments or symbols that identify the pilgrim. On the Camino de Santiago, pilgrims traditionally carried the characteristic staff with a gourd, and upon completing the pilgrimage, they returned wearing the scallop shell, which is still popular today and marked the completion of their pilgrimage.

The pilgrims of the Kumano Kodo wore the traditional Minachi hat, made of cypress wood, bamboo, or rice straw, with its characteristic conical or rounded shape. Even today, it is common to see pilgrims with hats of this type, adorned with Japanese writings.

Something that also catches the attention of foreigners who go to do the Kumano Kodo, or who visit Japan in general, is the great abundance of drink vending machines, which offer everything from hot drinks like coffee to a variety of juices and teas. So, do not be surprised if, while enjoying nature in its purest form along the Kumano paths, a vending machine suddenly appears to momentarily break the scene. It should be said that, especially in summer with high temperatures, it is a small optical nuisance that is greatly appreciated.

At the same time, along the Kumano Kodo, it is also common to find small stands of locals selling their products. Do not be surprised if there is no one to attend to you. It is designed for people to take what they need and leave the corresponding payment.

Although the Kumano Kodo is not designed to be done by bicycle, Japan is a country where bicycles are especially popular, and people of all ages use them as a regular means of transportation, so it will not be difficult for you to get one if you wish to do a bicycle route through any of its cities.

The Oji

Something particular about the Kumano Kodo is the existence of what are called Oji temples. These are small shrines of lesser deities that are located along the Kumano path to protect and guide pilgrims. Today, they are important because they serve as a guide to not get lost and know that you are on the right path, and also to get the stamp in your credential, which we will talk about later.

Completing the Kumano Kodo and the Camino de Santiago: Dual Pilgrims

Since 2012, Wakayama Prefecture and the Xunta de Galicia have collaborated to promote both pilgrimage routes. One of the measures they have decided to adopt is the so-called Dual Pilgrim, a joint credential for both pilgrimages that certifies having traveled both paths, and whose emblem combines the Santiago scallop shell with the three-legged crow, the symbol of Kumano.

One side is dedicated to the stamps of the Camino de Santiago, and the other to those of the Kumano Kodo, which can be obtained at the main temples, at the Oji, and at small wooden structures along the path.

The dual credential can be registered both in Santiago and at the Hongu Taisha Shrine in Japan, after having completed both pilgrimage routes. However, if done at the latter, one has access to participate in a special ceremony, which includes the opportunity to play the temple’s drums and receive a certificate on washi, traditional Japanese paper, with original calligraphy handwritten by the chief priest of the shrine.

For those who enjoy traveling and a good journey through nature, with beautiful and peaceful landscapes, the Kumano Kodo is made for you. Especially if you have already done the Camino de Santiago or plan to do so.

For those who have the opportunity to enjoy the Kumano Kodo or are eager to do so and have not yet tried the Camino de Santiago, Tournride provides the necessary material to complete at least the last 200 km (or more!) by bicycle and obtain your dual credential.